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Sep 23
in Bangkok to London

Construction, Crops and Climbing,,,

 

Into China now, and what a marked difference from Laos. Our border crossing was seamless, but it was apparent immediately that rules and regulations must be adhered to. After I was processed via the passenger lane at the border I went to Max and Penny at the boom-gate and had a friendly conversation with the border guard and hopped in Penny. My bad. I wasn’t supposed to do that, and it was indicated to me that I needed to get out and walk 5 metres ahead; when I was then allowed to get back into Penny after passing through the entry gate. Max and I realized immediately that our casual Australian disposition needed to be sharpened up a bit here.

There was a four-lane highway north of the border, a marked difference to the rough dirt roads in Laos; and also now with lots of Police border checkpoints.

Construction littered the landscape and huge grey concrete pillars grouped across the land. These fortresses are the roots of the proposed new highways and railways which connect China to neighbouring countries.

The surrounding mountains were covered with rubber plantations, with several National Preservation Parks however, where there are Asian elephants in the wild. I looked, and looked. I looked for rustling in the trees. Of course it would be totally impossible to see a wild elephant driving along the highway at 90km per hour.. but hey… it was worth a look… but however I didn’t see any. Lol

It wasn’t long after leaving Jinhong, quite a large town close to the border; that the landscape became agricultural and the rural nature was more similar to what we had seen in Laos. Rice. Bananas. Corn. And piles of firewood stacked neatly along the walls of fragile buildings.

Tobacco was a crop which we hadn’t seen growing before and the ragged stalks indicated much of the crop had been recently been harvested. The familiar sight of tall tobacco barns made me think of the similarities between all peoples to process crops in the same way across the world; as I know what tobacco barns look like. It was the first crop Max’s family grew when he was 6 years old, so he was very interested in seeing it being grown and harvested. I smelled the musty smell of cured tobacco as the trucks passed carrying it to the processing factories.

We’ve planned to stay off the highways, and our drive from Zhenyuan it was like we had gone off-piste! The route we had planned was closed so the new path was a track through the rural countryside. It was fabulous! Very bumpy and quite a tough drive with trucks also navigating the narrow road, but it was fascinating winding through the small rural villages. Evidence of the construction of highways striped across the rural land and led into arched tunnels in the mountains.

Large domed ovens were surrounded bricks in littered piles. The workers shovelled the mud into frames alongside these domes where the bricks were fired.

As we drove further north the main crop was the walnut; which were being harvested. All forms of transport carried the bulging bags of them to the local store, where it seemed that the farmers were being paid immediately as cash was exchanged for their crop.

​I smelled eucalyptus in the warm air and I realised we were surrounded by eucalyptus plantations. We passed a large processing mill and sheets of plywood made form the Eucalyptus wood-chip were drying vertically in the sun.

A large pineapple sat perched beside a long line of stalls selling pineapples. Of course we had to stop and choose a couple of naturally ripened fruit. I learned a new way of cutting them from the lady who so adeptly made small pieces using a VERY sharp cleaver and by just holding the top of the pineapple. They were just soooooo delicious!!

Large groups of road working gangs lined the road to either sweep it or plant large trees which had been extracted from another location. Hundreds of kms of 4mt high pruned trunks flanked the road; most of which had died but were supported by crossed staking supports. Perhaps there weren’t summer rains and the trees didn’t have enough water? Perhaps this transplantation scheme was part of the responsibility to revegetate? Whatever the reason… it seemed like a huge waste of energy as large road gangs were continuing to plant in the hot dry conditions.  

People seem to be busy here; except between 12 and 2.30pm. Everything seems to become quiet as the roller doors on small businesses close up and people retreat into their homes during the hottest part of the day.

Lunch in China has been so wonderful for me. Our guide Tom, has gone to extreme lengths to ask for food to accommodate my Coeliac diet; and the small roadside kitchens are absolutely fantastic the way the vegetables and meat are selected from a narrow glass door fridge and stirred and flipped feverishly with flames of fire engulfing a huge blackened wok. Each day we’ve been enjoying vegetables we aren’t accustomed to and able to source in Australia and its been fabulous. I’ve even learned how to prepare and cook freshly picked local bamboo shoot!! It was soooo good!

I Dali I had a fabulous afternoon learning a special tie-dyeing technique from the local Bai women. I stitched the cotton and wrapped the sections tightly with thread and immersed in a boiling indigo vat. I had heaps of fun and Max and our guide and driver also really enjoyed the afternoon as well.

Today we are in Lijiang after a short trip up the highway. Rain thwarted our planned rural route, and we were fortunate to not have to slog climbing slippery, winding mountainous roads today. We walked the Ancient city which was lovely. Very touristy – but a pleasant evening wandering and I even joined a local community traditional dance which was fun.

Penny has been going well except for a small hiccup yesterday. Max went with our guide and driver to get 2 new washers manufactured for the steering arms. Max’s ability to be resourceful meant that by lunchtime Penny was off the jack and ready to go.

Each day we climb higher and higher. Tonight we are at around 2500mts of elevation. We will be climbing up on to the Tibetan Plateau over the next few days… so will be in touch again when we can.

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About the Author: Julie
I am a Journeywoman. I live my life as an explorer. An adventurer. An Observer. An Artist. There is no differentiation between how I live my life and the art that is an expression of it. It is through my experience adventuring the unknown, that I learn more about myself. My aim through this connection is to live where my expression is fully in alignment with the essence of who I am. “In the field of Fine-Art Photography, Julie stands apart from others with the way she sees the world and expresses her connection within it. Julie Stephenson’s photographs are sublime. Her work is an expression of her deep connection; and a gift to the world.”

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skeinydipping

I looked down and saw my hands. Hands which have t I looked down and saw my hands. Hands which have touched; have loved; have created; have worked; have nurtured. My hands.   

I looked down and saw on my wrist and fingers items from around the world which have so many stories; items which have all been created from the heart and made by the hands of others. 

I looked down and saw beautiful yarn. Yarn which has been handled carefully through shearing, dyeing, skeining, balling; and now being knit in my beautiful hands. 

My hands are one of my gifts. This year I’ve really missed the touch of another with my hands, to feel the heart of another through my fingertips; but so grateful and love my hands which touch and feel; work and play!

What do you see when you look at your hands?

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Knitting a fabulous  #slipstravaganzamkal by @westknits .
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#gratitudeattitude #westknitsarethebestknits #westknitsmkal2020 #knittersofinstagram #knittersoftheworld #knittersofaustralia #indiedyedyarn #handmadewithlove #handmade #handmadejewellery #fromtheheart #createeveryday #livetotravel #healing #healinghands #creativehands
My life is wonderful… and I have so many stories My life is wonderful… and I have so many stories. I’ve had adventures on all continents. Slept being rocked by the sea; felt the ice on my skin in both polar regions, and felt the silence of the deserts. I’ve walked stone steps in monasteries at altitudes where each step I’ve taken consciously and mindfully; focussing on treasuring every molecule of oxygen in the rarefied atmosphere. 

COVID has paused those adventures, but I draw upon my experiences as I navigate adventuring my days in a different way, on our ‘home range’. 

I recall my steps in Tibet as I walk through our bushland. I am mindful and conscious of my surroundings. I listen. I feel. I feel happy here. I am content.

My new stories may not hold the same experiences of connection with others; and may not be of extreme challenges or crazy things  (which I am rather prone to doing! 🙂 ) but they are not less wondrous… as I smell the warm eucalyptus waft from under my feet. 

I weave my stories, and this story is of my personal journey on my daily walk through our bushland. 
You can see some of my other woven stories on my website - link in profile. 

How do you express your life’s stories?
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#weaversofinstagram #indiedyedyarn #indiedyed #rigidheddleloomweaving #ashford #inspiredbynature #contentcreator #emotionalbalance #homedeco #handcrafted #makersmovement #creativelifehappylife #wellbeing #travellerlife #journeywoman #weavingaustralia
“....The Assookinakii cowl was created for those “....The Assookinakii cowl was created for those times in your life when you need a meditative and healing knit. Assookinakii (ass-s-oo-kin-uh-k-EE) means ‘healer’ in the Blackfeet language, thank you to Cut Woods School in Browning, MT for the tradish language support”. –  Candice from @thefarmersdaughterfibers 

Knitting this beautiful cowl by Candice from @thefarmersdaughterfibers for @sistersunitedmt ; WAS healing. 

As my hands gently formed the repetitive stitches I reflected on the word ‘Assookinakii ‘ - healer. I am a healer. I don’t understand it. It’s something unseen. Something within me which has been recognised by Ngangkari and ‘clever men’ here in Australia; and shaman and healers around the world as we travel. This recognition always has caught me by surprise; as I seem to walk a line between two worlds. 

As the stitches slipped from one needle to another and the beautiful colours of @spincycle_yarns revealed themselves; in the pauses between the stitches I heard a voice whispering to continue to seek connection with the natural world and listen deeply. 

What has been healing for you this year?
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#healingjourney #meditationpractice #dyedinthewool #assookinakii_cowl #knittersofinstagram #knittingaddict #livinglifetothefullest #happydays #shaman #healer #healersofinstagram #listentoyourheart #indiedyedyarn #handmadewithlove #knittersgonnaknit #knittersoftheworld
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2017 All photographs created by and property of Julie Stephenson.